Travel plans don’t need to be complicated to get disrupted. I didn’t head to Zao Onsen with a rigid schedule or a minute-by-minute itinerary. My desires for the day were simple: soak in an onsen and take the Zao Ropeway up to the trailhead to see the Okama Crater. That was literally the extent of my plan.

Yet, even the simplest goals are subject to the whims of the mountains. As soon as I arrived to the Zao Bus Terminal, I hit an immediate roadblock: the main ropeway was closed due to annual maintenance. Seeing the Okama Crater was instantly off the table.

But traveling through Japan’s countryside has a way of teaching you to stay flexible. Instead of stressing, I pivoted and took the Zao Sky Cable up toward Dokkonuma Pond (ドッコ沼) instead.

Finding Stillness at Dokkonuma Pond (ドッコ沼)

That decision led directly to one of the absolute highlights of my entire trip. Dokkonuma Pond (ドッコ沼) was quietly sitting in the mountain air, surreal, still, and completely serene. The emerald water, surrounded by lush green foliage, felt entirely removed from the rest of the world. Sitting by the edge of the water gave me the exact space I needed to rest, breathe, and reset my nervous system. It was pure, unhurried stillness.

Town Wandering, Keema Curry, and a Tattoo-Friendly Soak

After taking the Zao Sky Cable back down, I wandered into town over to the quiet steps of Sugawa Onsen Shrine (湯神神社 / Sugawa Onsen-jinja), watching the steam drift up from the surrounding hot spring streams. By early afternoon, I stopped for lunch at Zao Stand My for a light, yet comforting plate of keema curry.

You can’t visit a historic hot spring town without going to an onsen..so, you guessed it — that was my next stop. Though traveling with tattoos in Japan requires a little extra care. After calling around to a few local spots, I found a welcoming, tattoo-friendly onsen not too far out and headed there. And as always, sinking into that hot, sulfur-rich water washed away every last bit of physical tension from the trail.

Trying Yonezawa Beef (米沢牛) for the First Time

The second major highlight of the day came at dinner. I headed to a local restaurant named Hachiman to try Yonezawa beef or Yonezawa-gyu (米沢牛) for the very first time. While Japan’s top three title usually goes to Kobe, Matsusaka, and Omi beef, Yonezawa-gyu is frequently grouped right alongside them and widely recognized as one of the most premium, elite Wagyu brands in the entire country. Sizzling right on the grill, it was so. damn. delicious. Easily the best beef I have ever eaten: insanely rich, buttery, and meltingly tender.

The Beauty of Staying Open

Sitting on the bus back to Yamagata that evening, I reflected. The two moments that made the entire day, resting by the emerald waters of Dokkonuma and tasting incredible Yonezawa beef, were not part of some grand, master plan. They were just what happened when I stayed open, pivoted, and allowed the day to unfold on its own terms.

Planning Your Own Visit to Zao Onsen?

Getting There: Take the local bus from Bus Stop #1 outside Yamagata Station (山形駅). The ride takes roughly 40 minutes and costs about 1,000 yen each way. IC cards (like Suica or Pasmo) are accepted, but keeping cash on hand for rural transit in Japan is always a safe bet.

Transit Flexibility: As I learned during my visit to Zao Onsen, the mountain ropeways close each year in May and November for maintenance. They also frequently pause or close due to high winds and weather shifts. Check operational status at the lower station before buying tickets, and use the Zao Sky Cable as an alternate route to access middle-mountain trails like Dokkonuma Pond (ドッコ沼).

Dining in Zao Onsen: Popular dinner spots like Hachiman fill up quickly during peak hours. Head over early in the evening to secure counter seating for Yonezawa-gyu (米沢牛). Also, be weary on Sundays of most restaurants closing immediately after lunch and then reopening. Don’t be left with limited options at 2:00pm like I was.

Navigating Onsens with Tattoos: Public baths in traditional hot spring towns vary in their policies, but we now know that Zao Onsen Dairotenburo is, indeed, tattoo friendly. Call ahead or ask your accommodations to check tattoo rules before walking in, or look for day-use private baths (kashikiri) to enjoy the sulfur baths worry-free.

Leaning Into the Unplanned

Sometimes the best travel memories are the ones you didn’t plan for. Between the stillness of the emerald pond and that unforgettable dinner, Zao Onsen reminded me that staying flexible is where the real adventure happens. Next time a travel day throws you a curveball, try leaning into it. You might just end up sitting by a quiet mountain pond or discovering the best meal of your trip.

If you want to see this journey in action, you can watch my latest Zao Onsen YouTube video here. I also have a very brief video with highlights of Yamadera here and a Yamadera guide on my blog here (also in Yamagata prefecture), if you’re interested in visiting there as well.